Regardless of however you imagine the church's night watchman smoking his faithful briar, it's clear that, in order to explore the shape's origins, one must step back, practically to tobacco's inception in the western world. The Churchwarden was once as ubiquitous to the pipe smoking community as the noble tamper is today, with roots as far back as the late 18th or early 19th century (depending on who you ask). Though pipes have been produced from such materials as brass, pewter, and even lead, clay was the primary medium used in American pipe creation until the latter part of the nineteenth century. Longer clay pipes were among those seen in pioneer-era taverns, where they would occasionally be owned by the establishment for use by patrons. This convention is perhaps what grants the Churchwarden its colloquial association with moments of stationary respite, but, make no mistake, the elongated configuration stuck around well after the advent of the briar pipe.
The shape retained popularity for quite some time, but fell out of fashion as the pipe smoking population became increasingly more mobile and in need of handier, more compact designs. It was only after the early 2000's that interest in these longer-stemmed pipes saw a resurgence with the release of films like The Lord of the Rings trilogy. Today, many well-known makers and marques, such as Dunhill, Savinelli, Peterson, and Vauen, all offer these long-stemmed pipes, occasionally devoting entire lines to Churchwardens. Whether you're in need of a reading pipe to keep the smoke out your eyes, enjoy the history and mythos surrounding the shape itself, or you simply want to look as regal as possible while enjoying a smoke, you should definitely consider adding a Churchwarden to your rotation. For more information on churchwarden pipes, see Churchwarden on Wikipedia Or you can check out Churchwarden on Pipedia. License this image for commercial use at Science and Society Picture Library. Science Museum Group © The Board of Trustees of the Science Museum. Long-stemmed wooden tobacco pipe, bowl tulip-shaped, plastic vulcanite mouthpiece, Bosnia, Yugoslavia, 1880-1925.
We encourage the use and reuse of our collection data. icon-cc-zero Data in the title, made, maker and details fields are released under Creative Commons Zero. icon-cc-cc icon-cc-by Descriptions and all other text content are licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 licence. Our records are constantly being enhanced and improved, but please note that we cannot guarantee the accuracy of any information shown on this website. Hello, I am building a Vaporizer in Steam Punk style! And I want to include a little heater instead of using a Lighter to Evaporate the oils in the Weed. It is really hard to find a tiny battery driven heater. I found this one: http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/486719295/ceramic_heater.html But I would have to order 2000 -_- Not really an option. The best solution so far was on this site actually.. https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-battery-powered-soldering-iron/ Just not sure it has the right length for my design.. I would prefer a Flat Heating element and then the Weed is placed inside a small Iron Box on Top. Also, I dunno about the hazards of that soldering iron. How about some nichrome or kanthal coils wrapped around or under some kind of ceramic cup or stone machined into a cup? Take a look into e-cigarette atomizers and rebuildable atomizers for ideas. They make atomizers with kanthal wrapped around stainless steel mesh (search genesis atomizer) and the stainless mesh is scorched with a lighter in order to form a layer of carbon to insulate the kanthal from shorting against it. FWIW, MagicFlite claims their Launch Box vape draws 11W from a high-capacity AA Ni-MH. See: http://www.vaporpedia.com/wiki/Magic-Flight_Launch_Box (and the patent application at: http://www.google.com/patents/about?id=pybwAAAAEBAJ ) I forgot to mention, a cigarette lighter from a car http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cigarette_lighter_receptacle#Lighter_use might be about the right size and shape. Although powering it with AA batteries is going to be tricky, if it really does use something like 12 volts at 10 amperes (120 W!) like the Wikipedia article suggests. But it might be worthwhile to look into that, to try to look up, or actually measure, how much power a automotive cigarette lighter uses. Thank You for the replys :) Well this does put things into perspective. I can't imagine a Cigarette lighter being stronger then the Soldering Iron. My initial Plan was to use a lighter, but I find it much more intriguing to build something advanced! The Herbs are placed on a thin Ironplate so they dont get into direct contact with the Soldering Iron, Lighter or what I am going to use. Would you suggest that I take take nichrome wire and place it under the Metal Plate? You cannot let the nichrome wire touch metal, because this will cause an electrical short circuit; i.e. the current will find a less resistive path through the metal it is touching.
The usual trick for keeping the nichrome from shorting is some kind of electrical insulator that can withstand high temperatures. Things like fiberglass tubing, sheets of mica, or mica-like material, or ceramic or glass. Also for heating elements, you cannot solder those connections that touch the element, assuming they might get hot enough to melt solder . So those connections must be crimped, or held in place by screws, or welded (much higher temperature), or something. I don't know if you've ever taken apart a hair dryer, or toaster, but if you can find one at a thrift store for a few USD, inside you will find nichrome wire (of some unpredictable gauge AWG) plus some maybe some mica sheets, or whatever they're using for high-temp insulation. Usually the connections to the nichrome wire are made with rivets. The riveted connections can't really reused, but sort of looking at it gives you some insight. It seems like if any place would have solutions to this kind of application, it would be their forums. Approximately how much power (in watts)do you want to put into this space? I mean into the volume you plan on heating with this small electric heater.
The reason I am asking about power, is because that is going to be the easiest way to approach something like this, for two reasons. The first reason is there is an easy formula for predicting the power dissipated by an electric heater. You just model it as a resistor, and say P = V*I = V^2/R, where I am also assuming V, the voltage across this resistor is known and constant. The second reason is that heat flow equations are complicated. Temperature distribution inside some oven-like box is hard to predict.