Apply a small dab of grease about the size of a pea to your fingertip and then smear an even band around the top half of the inner joint only. By keeping the grease in the top half of the joint you reduce the chances of contaminating your reaction mixture with excessive amounts of grease. Fit them together snugly and rotate them slightly until you have a clear band of grease that has no streak or bubbles. If you can't work out any streaks/bubbles with additional rotation/wiggling, take the joint apart, clean both halves completely and start over. Adding more grease to a streaked joint is usually not worth the effort.
If you plan on heating or refluxing your material, recognize that the grease will slowly dissolve away into your reaction vessel. If you will be distilling the material this may not matter, but if not and you have a material that has solubility characteristics similar to grease or a reaction that needs to run for several days, then you may need to rethink your approach. Solutions include keeping your system under positive pressure and substituting PTFE (i.e. We recently learned of another alternative, the Glindemann sealing ring, which is a narrow PTFE ring that is supposed to fit better than a conventional joint sleeve or Teflon tape. The joint size is described by a number of the form xx/yy. The first number denotes the width of the ball and the second number denotes the interior bore of the joint. For example, a 12/2 joint has a 12 mm ball and with a 2 mm hole. The instructions for greasing a ball and socket joint are the same as those listed for greasing a standard taper joint. Yes, your leg and hip form a ball and socket joint, but hopefully yours are not made out of glass!
O-ring joints should not be greased, however the O-ring itself should be treated with an extremely thin coating of grease. A good way to do this is to simply rub your nose with your thumb and forefinger and then rub the O-ring (honest. When assembling an O-ring joint, be careful that no hairs or fibers stick to the O-ring as these will cause a vacuum leak. Also make certain that the O-ring is correctly sized and fully seated in the groove. Conical taper joints are the most common way to connect lab glass components. They are called male and female joints, for obvious reasons we hope, and permit quick, leak-tight fittings. They are manufactured by forming tubing into a conical taper, very near the final dimension, then grinding the conical surface to a standard size. Generally, the designations of taper joint sizes are in two numbers, separated by a slash: the first number is the diameter, in millimeters, of the ground part of the joint at the top (largest diameter), and the second number is the length of the ground part - i. a 24/40 joint is 24 mm at the top (widest diameter), and 40 mm long. This means that if the first numbers of a male and female set are not the same, those joints will not fit together; if they are, they will - a 24/25 male joint will fit into a 24/40 female joint, although the lengths will be different. There are "full length" joints, "medium length" joints, European ISO standard joints, stopper joints, and a variety of odd sizes. Stopper joints are an exception in that they are designated by only one number, the major diameter. They are used primarily on volumetric ware and separatory funnels. In use, it is a good idea to lubricate conical joints with an appropriate grease, or Teflon sleeves should be interposed to avoid wedging the male and female together; they can become stuck or "frozen". Be very careful not to use too much force in trying to separate frozen joints; if the glass breaks it will do so suddenly, and potentially cut. Glassblowing is not the easiest thing to do and do well. The talented glass artists that create the most elaborate pieces know exactly what they can be worth. After a little research, and a lot of drooling over glass, we found a few of the most expensive pieces on the market today. So start saving your pennies, because these pieces just might break the bank. Pakoh and Leisure Glass come together to collaborate on this adorable robot shaped perc bubbler . It has an 18mm robot head disc screen slide and three-legged foot which makes the piece look like it is on three (non-functional) wheels. There are tiny details etched over the entire piece. This collab between Pyrology and Zii is perfect gift for someone with very …unique tastes.
The clean lines of the body of this concentrate bong contrasts against the rough, creepy zombielike face and finger that make up the mouthpiece and downstem. This is a Limited Edition Cypress Hill bong in the Icemaster design. It features red and orange swirl designs and a gold Cypress Hill logo. Talon has created this mini tube set with tons of attachments. This blue, green and clear piece stands just under 9 inches tall. It even comes with a matching dome, slide, dome cap and jar! This triceratops dab rig was created by Nick Pioch, also known as Robin Hood Glass.
This intricate piece is made in a pale, translucent green and has curves and points galore. Whether you use it for dabbing or just stare it – it is a unique addition to any glass collection. ME Glassworks teams up with Blitzkriega to produce this insane collaboration rig . Pair Blitzkreiga’s iconic balloon style with ME Glassworks affection for giraffes and we get this giraffe print balloon dog dab rig.