We can also see that there's very little difference between the yields achieved using the dry material of both plants. So now we know the relative yields, but to properly contrast and compare them, next we'll have to look at the quality of the hash produced. Visual comparison of hash from dry buds (above) and fresh-frozen (below) of R-Kiem #1.
As we've seen, over the two plants the fresh-frozen extraction yielded more weight, but what the charts don't show us is that it also produced a considerably higher quality and more flavourful resin than the dried material, with the first few washes having a notably lighter colour , and much more of a greasy texture, while later, during the necessary "field tests" the dried, cured hash from the first wash fully melted to liquid when heated on an electric nail at 260ºC, leaving virtually nothing after evaporation, while even the very best grades of the hash made with the dried flowers left behind a small amount of residue when melted on the nail. Breakdown of trichome sizes in the R-Kiem #1 fresh frozen extraction. Summing up the quality, by far the best results came from the first few washes of the fresh-frozen material, which produced a hash of truly superior quality , while in general the extraction from the dried, uncured flowers produced resin of a slightly lower grade, but that remained more consistent in quality over multiple washes, not deteriorating and releasing chlorophyll as fast as the fresh-frozen material does. As a personal preference, in the majority of cases, these particular hash makers prefer to work with dried, uncured flowers , but occasionally, with certain, special plants, we’ve found that fresh-frozen material can deliver spectacular results both in quality and weight, but it depends on certain factors. In our search for hash producing phenotypes, after we've selected plants based on the usual criteria of ease of growth, structure, aroma, effect, yield, etc, then the selection process is all down to how much, how easily and how quickly the flowers will give up their trichomes during washing. In our experience, most plants will need several washes to get to the point where we feel like we’ve removed the vast majority of the resin heads off the flowers, and we’ve found that as a general rule (of course, there are always exceptions) dried flowers will hold up better and produce cleaner resin over multiple washes , while fresh-frozen material can degrade quickly, releasing chlorophyll as it defrosts during washing, and lending an unattractive green tinge to the resulting hash. A great example of this is our cup-winning cut of Tropical Snow from Danish seed bank Zen Seeds, a plant that produces massive yields of full-melt quality hash up to and beyond the eighth wash when using dried flowers, but when using fresh-frozen material, only the first and second washes are anywhere near the quality we're looking for. On the other hand, one occasionally finds plants that are capable of dropping almost all of their trichomes in the first wash , making a second wash a mere formality. We once had an incredible, now sadly lost phenotype of Blue Cheese from Barney’s Farm that did just that, and with incredible aroma flavour and effect too.
Plants like this are, in our opinion the perfect plants for fresh-frozen water hash, giving blonde, terpene-rich, top-shelf extracts and impressive returns with very little washing, before the material has any chance of defrosting and contaminating the hash. If this experiment has shown us anything, it’s that the plant material itself will dictate the best way to extract, and it’s really only by trying and testing that we are we able to uncover this knowledge. As we’ve seen with here, there can be notable differences even between phenotypes of the same plant, with the R-Kiem #1 giving almost 100% more yield than R-Kiem #2 in fresh-frozen, but only 23% more with dry material. Not only that, but the #1 phenotype also released almost no chlorophyll during the fresh-frozen extraction, giving a beautiful light-coloured resin , whereas the extraction using dried material of the same #1 plant was visibly darker , having taken on some vegetable matter at some point during the process. And, just to prove how important hash making is for plant selection , and vice-versa, the #2 phenotype behaved in exactly the opposite way, the dried material produced a much cleaner result than the fresh-frozen extraction, from which the third wash and all subsequent washes were, in our view, far too green in colour. So, at the end of this particular experiment, we’ve seen that from two plants of the same strain that were very similar in appearance, aroma and flower yield, we achieved quite contrasting results from each different extraction process , with R-Kiem #1 being better suited to fresh-frozen hash making, and R-Kiem #2 better suited for extractions using dried material. However, given the considerably higher yields and superior quality obtained by R-Kiem #1 in the fresh-frozen extraction, in this case, we would definitely be keeping a mother plant of that particular phenotype in order to provide clones for future cultivation with hash-making in mind. We'd like to encourage you to do the same thing, get your hands on some great seeds and pheno-hunt a great hash plant for yourself, it’s a highly rewarding process and besides, carrying out a thorough assessment and "field-testing" the results with friends is a lot of fun too! This article was co-authored by our trained team of editors and researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness. wikiHow's Content Management Team carefully monitors the work from our editorial staff to ensure that each article is backed by trusted research and meets our high quality standards. There are 12 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. wikiHow marks an article as reader-approved once it receives enough positive feedback. In this case, several readers have written to tell us that this article was helpful to them, earning it our reader-approved status. Nothing ruins the taste of a good smoke like a dirty bong. Fortunately, there are some pretty easy and reliable ways to clean your bong both generally and extensively. To make and keep your bong clean, do a basic cleaning, get those tough areas and stains, and take good care of your bong. A well-maintained bong bowl can take a few minutes to clean. A clogged bowl, however, can mean spending several hours to get it clean. The necessary materials you’ll need for cleaning and unclogging a bong bowl would be: Dishwashing liquid Epsom salt or rock salt 90% Isopropyl alcohol (or higher) Hot water Ziploc bag and/or dish bowl Basin or sink Optional Q-tips, toothpicks, match, bobby pins, paper clips, pocket knife, or pipe cleaner to scrape off the stuck-on resin. Gently wash your bong bowl with water in the sink, gradually increasing the temperature. Let the water run through the bowl to help loosen up the resin. Place the bong bowl inside a dish bowl or Ziplock bag. Fill it up with hot water mixed with dishwashing liquid, fully submerging the bong bowl in water. Soak the bong bowl for 10-30 minutes, depending on how thick the resin is. You may want to do the soaking overnight if your bong bowl is clogged. Change the soaking water several times as needed, gently shaking the bong bowl. Take out the bong bowl and shake out the excess moisture. Place an open Ziplock bag on top of the table and hover the bowl inside the opening. Run a bit of alcohol through the bowl then place it inside the bag.
Pour alcohol inside the bag to fully cover the bong bowl. Add a generous amount of salt, making sure you see solid particles inside the fluid. Seal the bag tightly and shake as hard as you can for 5-10 minutes. You’ll notice the liquid changing in color, and some residue will float. Wash the bowl thoroughly with hot water, making sure to cover all areas to remove the alcohol. Scraping should be done very carefully because of the use of dry heat. It’s used mostly on pipes, but others use it for thick bowls. The heat loosens up the resin so that you can scrape it off.
pins, paper clips, pocket knife) to take out the resin bit by bit. Bong users are divided when it comes to boiling their bong bowl. There’s the risk of the bowl cracking and/or breaking depending on how thick the bong bowl and stem would be. If you wish to boil your bong bowl: Wash the bong bowl with water, gradually increasing the temperature to temper the glass material Place it in a small pot, pouring hot water up to half the pot. Put it on the fire and let it boil for 5-15 minutes on low to medium heat.