How To Use An Eyce Collector
What is a nectar collector?
A nectar collector is a smoking device used for consuming oil and wax concentrates. Our Eyce Collector is made up of three sections – the platinum cured silicone body, the percolated water filtration, and a titanium nozzle. The three pieces all come apart for easy cleaning. You can also remove the middle section (where the percolated water filtration lies), turning the Eyce Collector into a dry “straw”, for on-the-go use. Check out the Eyce Collector video on our product page.
Adding water to your Eyce Collector
Our silicone nectar collector features a built-in percolated water filter. Before heating and using your new Eyce Collector, you should add water. Simply add about half a tablespoon of water into your nectar collector’s body. Be careful not to overfill! The Eyce Collector does not require a lot of water, if the divide is overfilled, water may flow out of the titanium nozzle which could cause burning. It’s very important not to overfill the collector.
How to heat your collector’s nozzle?
After adding water, you’re ready to use your smoking device. The first step is to prep your concentrate. Place your loaded silicone concentrate container on a flat, stable surface.
Next, heat the titanium nozzle using a butane torch. Do not wait for your nozzle to glow red – this is far too hot. Roughly 5-8 seconds of even heating will result in a hot enough nozzle. Heating the nozzle longer than 15 seconds is not recommended. Now that you have achieved your preferred balance of heat, you’re ready to smoke.
How to properly smoke with your collector
With your lips up against the silicone end, begin to inhale through the straw hole. Gently lower the heated nozzle until it comes into contact with the wax or oil concentrate. You can roll the titanium nozzle up against the silicone container. Do be aware; a little bit can go a long way. Start with a small amount (roughly the size of a ladybug). It’s as simple as that.
Things to remember when using your Eyce Collector:
- Do not overfill.
- Don’t use too much wax, the Eyce Collector is incredibly efficient, and less is often more.
- If you see hot vapor escaping, press more lightly or pull on the collector harder.
- Lower temperature hits tend to result in a smoother and better-tasting experience.
Storing and traveling with your hot nectar collector
After using your Collector, you have the ability to cover the hot nail. Simply pull apart the collector at the center, flip around the end of the nail and insert it nail first into the body of the collector. The Eyce Collector can also be used as a portable, dry “straw” by removing the middle section.
How to clean your collector?
Cleaning your Collector is just as easy as using it. Start by clearing out any solid materials from the slide using a cotton swab or stiff brush. After removing solid material, take apart all the pieces. Apply some Eyce Silicone Cleaner to the inside of the silicone body. Allow the silicone to soak for 5 minutes and then scrub away any stuck-on grime. Using old toothbrushes and cotton swabs are great for stuck-on dirt or hard to reach spots. After scrubbing, rinse your product thoroughly and let dry.Check out our "how-to" on using the Eyce Collector. Our silicone nectar collector is the ultimate tool for the connoisseur. The guide will provide everything you need to enjoy this nifty new straw.
Making Parts, Patterns, Tools, & Molds
Moldmaking, Casting, Laminating, Composites, and more
- Video Introduction
- Machining A Master Model
- Preparing Models and Molds
- Weighing & Mixing Materials
- Vacuum Degassing
- Making Simple Rigid Molds
- Urethane Rubber Molds
- Simple Silicone Rubber Molds
- Mass Casting Complex Parts
- Clear Silicone Rubber Molds
- Casting Thin-Walled Parts
- Casting With Intricate Detail
- Complex Parting Lines
- Multiple Cavity Molds
- Complex Parting Lines
- Surface Casting
- Epoxy Laminating Systems
- Paste Laminating Systems
- The Repro Laminating System
- Glove Molding Systems
- Repro Fast-Cast Urethanes
- Freeman & Ren Urethanes
- Rhodia Silicone Rubber
- Freeman Machinable Wax
- RenShape Modeling Boards
- Perfect Plank Specialty Lumber
- TUF Repair Materials
- F-Bond & Araldite Adhesives
Casting Molds & Models with Intricate Detail One of the greatest challenges in making molds and casting parts is air entrapment. If air becomes entrapped while pouring a liquid urethane or silicone rubber on a model or mold, it forms small voids that become defects on the surface of your mold or part.
In previous videos, we have demonstrated several methods of minimizing air entrapment These include applying pressure to a mold while the liquid cures, vacuum degassing the material prior to pouring, and venting a mold. All of these methods allow air that might otherwise become entrapped in the mold, to be eliminated.
However, some highly detailed or intricate patterns pose some particular challenges that cannot be solved with simple venting, degassing, or applying pressure. In these cases, adding an extra step or two to the casting process, as demonstrated here, can make a significant difference to the quality of the final part.
Here we have a miniature replica of a Michelangelo statue, which has been adhered to our mold board with Plast-Econ modeling clay.
The highly irregular and detailed surface of our model features many places where air can easily become entrapped during the mold-making or casting process. Therefore, before we pour our silicone rubber into our mold box, we take a small amount of our mixed silicone and gently brush and dab the material all over our model, paying particular attention to those areas where air can become entrapped easily.
After we have covered the entire model with a thin layer of silicone rubber, we then finish constructing our mold frame. In this case, we are simply using a paper cup with the bottom cut out of it, which is adhered to the plywood with Plast-Econ modeling clay.
Now we are ready to pour the remainder of our silicone rubber into our mold cavity. The layer of silicone rubber that we had applied with a brush has actually smoothed the surface of our model and thus reduced the likelihood of air entrapment.
The next day, we remove our mold from the mold board and peel away our cup, revealing our silicone rubber mold. Next, we cut the flashing around the bottom edge of our mold.
Then, using a sharp knife, we carefully begin to cut one side of our silicone mold until we can remove our model.
Here you see our new silicone mold next to the model that was used to create it. Notice how well the silicone rubber re-creates the detail of the model and how easily it returns to its original shape after we pulled it apart.
Now we will use our Freemen 1085 polyurethane elastomer to create a duplicate.
We close our mold and then use electrical tape to hold the parting line together.
After weighing and mixing our urethane, we apply some urethane to our brush and cover as much of the surface of our mold as possible, much like we did with the silicone rubber, except that this is a bit more difficult because we are applying it to the inside of a mold rather than the outside of a model.
Next, we pour a little bit of the material into the mold cavity and spend about 30 seconds rolling that material all around the mold cavity so that it coats the entire surface of the mold with a thin layer of our resin.
Finally, we pour the remainder of our urethane into our mold cavity and allow the urethane to cure, which in this case takes about an hour.
When the urethane has fully cured, we remove the tape and demold our new casting. By following these simple techniques, we were able to re-create the intricate surface of our model both with silicone rubber and our urethane casting material and minimize any air entrapment that would have formed imperfections on the surface of our casting.
Our mold is now ready to be put back into service.Making Parts, Patterns, Tools, & Molds Moldmaking, Casting, Laminating, Composites, and more Video Introduction Machining A Master Model Preparing Models and Molds Weighing ]]>