Also take note that if you choose to use soap water for this method, make sure to rinse the atomizer with clean water after soaking and before drying to wash off any soapy residue. If you find that a Q-tip is too large to fit into the tight airflow slots your atomizer has, a paper clip will work just fine as an alternative. Simply unbend it to a straight wire-like tool and use it scrape and dislodge any gunk or residue that might’ve found its way to your atomizer’s air flow channels. After you’ve loosened the residue, its also a good idea to wrap the end of the paper clip with a bit of wet cotton or tissue in order to let it grab all those loose gunky bits. This will guarantee that anything leftover inside the airflow slots will be cleaned out.
While it may seem overly simple, a good and hard blow (not suck) on the atomizer can help in flushing out anything that might be clogging up the airflow slots. This won’t remove residue that’s truly stuck to the insides unless the gunk has built up to a point where the airflow is mostly closed off already. The paper clip method is a bit more thorough, but blowing out the atomizer doesn’t take much so it’s always worth a try. Dirt or residue from vaping doesn’t just affect how well your atomizer heats up your product, it can also get in the way of the contacts that facilitate the flow of current from your battery to the atomizer. Make sure that the connections and any threading that connects the atomizer to the coil are completely clean and free of dust, lint or any other debris. Failing to clean the contacts can prove to be a fire hazard as whatever is trapped between your atomizers contacts can easily combust from the heat transfer. Just make sure that the threads and contacts are completely dry after cleaning before use as any leftover liquid can easily cause a short in the atomizer or worse.
After all the above steps have been applied, it’s usually a good idea to give your atomizer one last burn. This helps get rid off any stubborn residue that the previous methods failed to get rid off. Take note that this method is only advisable for atomizers that use metal coils. Ceramic coils will eventually pop, crack, and break when exposed to enough heat so always keep that in mind before doing this step. When humans change natural habitats by building houses and roads, wildlife sometimes needs a helping hand to survive. Some people plant gardens for butterflies, dig ponds for frogs, or build houses for birds and bats. In Florida you can help native treefrogs by building houses for them. Treefrog houses give the frogs a shady, safe place to hang out during the day, and a place to sit at night and watch for tasty roaches, beetles, and spiders. In neighborhoods, people sometimes let their cats live or play outside, because they do not understand that cats eat millions of Florida's birds, lizards, and frogs every year. Treefrog houses can help to protect treefrogs from cats and other animals that might try to eat them. You can also help native treefrogs by watching out for invasive Cuban treefrogs—they like to hang out in treefrog houses too, and they eat native treefrogs! Making a treefrog house is easy—you just need a few supplies from a hardware store and a little help from an adult. Please note: In the western United States, uncapped PVC pipes used to mark mining claims pose a serious threat to birds that become trapped inside; however, accidental bycatch of PVC treefrog houses is not a problem in Florida. The PVC treefrog houses described in this fact sheet should be used only in Florida. If you are located in another state, please contact your local UF/IFAS Extension office for advice on native frog conservation. A three-foot length of white plastic PVC pipe (Get the kind with thin walls: it should be 1.25 inches in diameter) A saw for cutting the pipe (and an adult to use the saw) Permanent markers or paint pen. An old broomstick or a dowel rod (at least three feet long) A sponge or an old washcloth. To make your frog house, ask an adult to cut one end of the three-foot PVC pipe at a slant (45 degrees), or have it cut at the hardware store. Use permanent markers or paint pens to decorate your treefrog house (Figure 1). Use permanent markers or paint pens to decorate your treefrog house. [Click thumbnail to enlarge.] Setting up Your Treefrog House. Find the perfect place for your treefrog house—in a flower bed or near shrubs, trees, or other tall plants. Treefrogs like to hang out in plants because there are plenty of hiding places, lots of bugs to eat, and branches where they can just sit and wait for the bugs to crawl by. Put the new treefrog house near plants to help the treefrogs find it. When you find the right spot, ask an adult to help you use a rubber mallet to hammer the slanted end of the pipe into the ground so that the pipe stands up on its own (Figure 2). Check your treefrog house for frogs by peeking in the top (Figure 3).
If treefrogs do not move in within a couple of weeks, try moving your treefrog house to a new spot. Use a rubber mallet to hammer your treefrog house into the ground in a flower bed or near bushes or other plants.
[Click thumbnail to enlarge.] Peek inside the top of your treefrog house to check for frogs. Soon you will find treefrogs (like this green treefrog) living inside. Make a "frog plunger" by wrapping a sponge or an old washcloth around one end of an old broomstick or dowel rod and attaching it with duct tape (Figure 4). The fat end of your plunger should fit the inside of the pipe.